Itaewon: Foreigner Ghetto or Rugged Charm?
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 at 4:41 PM From Matt Lamers at the Korea Herald:
...Reporter Adam Walsh is writing a story on reviving the push to get Itaewon on the list of areas to be redeveloped. It’s controversial. Some say Itaewon would greatly benefit from redeveloped streets, side walks and the influx of cash. Some say it could ruin its rugged character.
Would you be willing to put a poll on your websites on this issue?
Yes Matt, Yes I would be willing. But first some background. (Also from Matt.)
A 2005 presentation to Mayor Lee-Myung-bak by the Foreign Investment Advisory Council pushed for a refurbishment of Itaewon. The rationale behind the push was that to be a hub of Asia, a more foreigner-friendly social hub is needed.
Given its location and de facto status as Seoul’s center for foreigners, Itaewon fit the bill perfectly. Tourists, expats and Koreans alike were surveyed on their opinions and renowned architect David-Pierre Jalicon gave his artistic impression of what could be. Mayor Lee liked it a lot. Bit in the four years following, all that has been done are a couple of small cosmetic side walk changes. It is time to find out why changes weren’t acted upon, whether the new mayor is even aware of the proposal.
It seems the original Itaewon refurbishment went the way of Lee's Canal, which I am on record as being sorely disappointed at - could this be a second stinging failure from Ol' Bung Eye?
Funnily enough I was in Itaewon last Saturday for the first time in I do not know how long. The place seems to have changed a lot since the last time I was there as it is. I was quite annoyed at the lack of an ATM machine, the KEB having been ripped out of Burger King, and the new Branch still being built. Standard and Chartered had also been ripped out.
It's usually a cold day in hell when you find me up there, given that there is nothing apart from the odd shirt or pair of pants that I can't find elsewhere in Seoul or in the internets. I do make sure I have a meat pie at the Aussie Shop when I'm there though.
Anyway, here's the survey:
Reader Comments (3)
Itaewon remains the only place in Seoul with a really good variety of international food. The only reason I go there is to eat dinner (or brunch) and to see the shows Seoul Players puts on. The bars are also all pretty friendly to foreign performers, something that can't be said for everywhere else in Seoul.
ATM = Automated Teller Machine
... it's a peeve, along with PIN number.
Thank You Jessica - I realise the redundancy in saying ATM Machine.
You know, I really think Itaewon gets a bad rap, perhaps an unfair legacy of its more sordid past. I've been here 5 years now and even it that short period of time I've witnessed some pretty signifcant changes for the better.
Yeah, they did the new sidewalks and gave vendors those standardized carts. But beyond the purely cosmetic changes has been a pretty dynamic shift in, for lack of a better word, attitude. Gone are a lot of the more sleazy bars catering to horny GIs and English teachers. These have been replaced by some really nice restaurants, many with street side dining. I think a good example of this transformation is the alley behind Hamilton Hotel.
Here's the biggest change I've noted: Koreans are coming out to Itaewon in numbers that would have been unimaginable a few short years ago. The upscale restuarants make Itaewon a dining destination for more and more "natives". Hell, I expect they enjoy the food almost as much as watching us waeguks passing by on the street.
Several great western-style bars and pubs have opened recently (check out Sam Ryan's above 3 Alley Pub next time you are in town). What is truly amazing is that Korean-folk are venturing into these bars on a more and more frequent basis. I think it is pretty cool to see this intermingling (kinda like I'm actually living in foreign country!).
Anyway, Hooker Hill, Gay Hill, the tranny and juicy bars are all still there, but that scene is not so much "in your face" these days. I think they add flavor to a rather eccletic mix and would hate to see that eliminated.
Funny thing, last week I was quaffing a brew at Goldfish (a friendly Filipino owned streetside bar) and some tourists asked about how to find Hooker Hill (it's actually right across the street from Goldfish). I had to laugh, because even at its sleaziest, Itaewon is apparently a tourist destination.
Cheers!